Francuz писал(а):- не любят там русских...
Кто-то наспамил выше меры... при чем тут именно русские...не ищите врагов...
Ладно, чтоб ещё и хохлов прицепом не записали во враги - скопипащу кусок про хоп-ап
, английского хорошо не знаю, так что переводить не берусь.
SECTION III - HOPUP AND BARREL
HOPUP UNIT - I've identified and illustrate several hopup design flaws in this diagram.
Hopup Arm wobble corrected by adding an AEG Gearbox shim to the right side of the hopup arm post. This tightens up the hopup arm to eliminate wobble & canting side to side. its tight enough so the arm will not fall under gravity, yet will move under the slightest pressure from the slide-arm pin so as not to inhibit easy adjustment. Note, the AEG shim's inner hole had to be enlarged to ~1/8" to fit around the post. A dremel & diamond grinding bit makes quick work it.
Hopup Slide-arm pin tolerance & deforming corrected by permanently attaching a brass collar at the base of the pin to eliminate excess play between the pin diameter and slot in the hopup chamber. It also prevents the deformation of the soft plastic pin over time as the upward pressure exerted by the BB pressing passed the bucking pushes the slide-arm upwards against the much harder metal slot. Ensure the length of this collar does not interact with the Hopup Arm. Its only purpose is to provide support between itself (slide arm) and the slot in the hopup shell.
Hopup Slide-arm Flex corrected by installing a small support plate to guide the slide-arm and prevent it from flexing outward under pressure as the BB presses passed the bucking nub. Any tiny movement in the arms position may cause inconsistency in the amount and direction of spin applied to the BB. The guide plate shown is made from stainless "spring" steel (garage door opener clip), A small notch machined into the plate centers the plate in position. This "anti-flex" plate in my opinion corrects the single biggest flaw in the hopup design, that being the material flexibility of the slide arm, and the fact its only supported on one side. My theory being, since its more rigid on the support side (right) there is greater firmness in pressure applied to the right side of the bucking, and more "give" or flex associated with the left side of the bucking. This might explain why so many have "Right Curve" issues. In other words, the BB presses passed the LEFT side easier than the right, the result can be described as a 1-0'clock spin instead of the ideal 12-0'clock spin.
Hopup Arm slot inner surface was carefully made flush using micro sanding blocks to eliminate the uneven casting line at the center of the component. This allows more even downward pressure from the slide-arm pin against the upward pressure that each shot will cause as the BB presses passed the bucking nub. If one side (teeter tooter effect) "gives" or is less rigid than the other, the spin will be biased in the opposite direction.
** NO PHOTO ** as the detail cannot be captured, but this is pointed out in the diagram in BLUE.
Hopup Arm nub was re-shaped to "cup" the bucking outer diameter. The idea behind this, is that any tiny rotational offset (between shots) with the two-pronged style hopup arm will result in huge differences in shot trajectory. With a cupped nub pressing against the bucking, micro shifts in positioning would have a much lesser affect. The purpose is not so much the initial positioning and dialed in state of the bucking in regards to alignment in the hopup unit. But more so, the tiny tiny variations that occur between shots.
In a nutshell, epoxy resin (crazy glue) was carefully applied and built up in layers. Using mild heat accelerated the curing time. The buildup of resin between the (2) prongs was then carefully shaped with a cylindrical sanding block.
Hopup bucking anti-blowby rings correct the issue where the bucking is unsupported at the top (where the hopup arm moves) thus allowing air pressure to blow-by, resulting in compression loss. This problem becomes exponentially worse in higher velocity setups where up to 50+ fps velocity can be lost. The rings are cut from a 10mm brass tube with approximately 0.2mm wall thickness. The rings are expanded slightly to fit snugly around the hopup bucking, yet still allow the hopup chamber halves to be tightened flush. The result is 100% leak proof [Nozzle to Bucking] AND [Bucking to Barrel] seal. This corrects the inherent flaw in the hopup chamber where the top 15% of the bucking diameter is unsupported by the hopup chamber cavity to withstand expansion under pressure, making it inherently inadequate to prevent air pressure blow-by.
Consistent compression directly translates into consistency in shots. When every BB is propelled through the hopup unit under the exact same pressure, the spin on each BB will be more consistent.
Hopup Bucking nub was shaped in an inverted round fashion to apply grip to greater surface area on top of the BB. The most important aspect of this "Firefly" style shape, is that the BB is given a groove to align itself consistently each time a BB interacts with the hopup nub. Against a smaller area, a BB may shift side to side and receive a biased spin making windage results inconsistent. Compare the idea of taking a wide stance compared to a narrow stance. The wider stance is much more stable and resistant to change. Without doubt, this modification has singularly improved windage accuracy more so than any other modification. But as with anything, there is a balance. If the bucking nub applies too much grip, effective adjustment range must be lowered, which can lead to an un-usable hopup bucking, and or inconsistent trajectory in terms of elevation.
It is noteworthy to add, that without attention to consistency in every component of the hopup unit, there will be room for variation in the amount and direction of spin applied by the hopup as a whole.
SECTION IV - PERFORMANCE TIPS, SPECS, & TESTING
HOPUP ALIGNMENT CHECKS
I put a mark on the barrel which I use to align with the line between the two hopup shell halves. You can also use the groove in the barrel in relation to space inside the unit where the arm is located. But a mark on the barrel is more precise while lining them up.
With the Hopup assembled (less the horse-shoe) you can visually observe whether the bucking nub is descending evenly and level in relation to the line between the hopup shell halves. Using a bright white background, you can see that the bucking nub is even and uniform at max setting.
Use a similar check while installing the bucking onto the barrel, looking through the inside of the barrel at the cutout (nub window). Using a flashlight, its quite simple to ensure that the nub, when depressed with a finger is centered within the borders of the window. The above diagram is the final and most crucial check prior to re-assembly to prevent curved shots.
The first alignment check can allow for very small adjustments without the need to split the hopup unit again. Simply loosen the (2) screws a little bit, so the barrel and bucking rotate freely between the barrel retention blocks. There will be a very very tiny amount of rotational adjustment available for you to make that final alignment tweek in one direction or the other.